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The LEDs for the doors needed a 1960 resistor which equates to a 196 OHM. the 21H cluster has different larger resistors on the back. The 24H cluster has all the resistors and traces on the FRONT and really small and higher resistance resistors. outside they look identical sans some indicators. didnt realize how different they looked under the plastics. I took apart a 21H motormeter cluster I purchased as an extra parts cluster. Ok so I tackled this last night with adding the LEDs. hopefully I get lucky and I can just desolder the LEDs and resistors and reuse them by resoldering them back to the SMG cluster where the rear doors are.
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I will look at the leds and follow the traces as you said on both the SMG cluster and the spare parts cluster.
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And if I'm building the cluster for an M54 car, I'll use the two removed LEDs to replace the 70 RPM LEDs for the redline.awesome, thats what i figured for the SMG cluster coding. So what I'll usually do is just replace all 4 door LEDs and resistors with the new ones so that they match. I don't know the exact brightness value for the stock LEDs, but what I've found is using the above LEDs with a 1000Ω resistor gets them pretty close to stock brightness (though not identical). And if I'm building the cluster for an M54 car, I'll use the two removed LEDs to replace the 70 RPM LEDs for the redline.
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I've found these LEDs to be the same color as stock, but they're much brighter: Also pay attention to polarity, otherwise the LED won't light up. I'm also not sure if the early clusters use LEDs of the exact same rating as the new ones, so you might have to experiment with different resistance values to get the right brightness. The early clusters use resistors that are considerably larger than what the new ones come with. LCD should turn off.įor the LEDs, you need the LEDs and appropriate resistors (follow the traces and you'll see where the resistors are supposed to go).
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Though since you have an S54, it'd probably be best to leave the coding index as C24 and code the cluster as if it's a manual M3. Sets everything appropriately, and if the car is a manual, the LCD will turn off. I assume PASoft wont be able to switch the cluster from SMG to manual and ill have to use NCS expert to set one or more things to "not active"įor C24 clusters, generally what I do is just change the coding index to C08, and then reflash that as if it's a non-M cluster with NCS Expert. The parts cluster i'm also going to harvest the right bottom indicator panel out of it and put it in the SMG cluster since it will cover the SMG display just like it should. Is it just as easy as soldering in LEDs and they work? or does the cluster need to be coded as Sedan/limousine as well? I also bought another 21H manual M3 cluster for parts so I could harvest LEDs out of it to solder in for my 4 door portion, i can already see where the 2 rear doors are there are solder beds ready for LEDs I swear I saw another user on here that had an imola zhp with an SMG cluster in with the SMG panel/display deactivated? I just picked up a 24H cluster from a 2004+ car but its an SMG. Its an older cluster though (22H from late 2001 build) and missing the M track mode indicator from the 2003+ cars. I have a manual E46 M3 cluster in my car now, works great.